Cleaning Up Your Act

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Point well taken. I guess I should take that attitude for my XD's also. What's good for one should apply to all.

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CrossFire wrote:

Point well taken. I guess I should take that attitude for my XD's also. What's good for one should apply to all.

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Yeah, I sure would like to know why know thouh .
I forget, is your misqiuto barrel chrome lined?

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No, it is not chrome lined. The manual does mention scratching the surface of the metal. I would hope the the barrel would be strong enough to withstand that.

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Regarding Sig's caution against using wire brushes in the misquito; I wish I knew if that is their standard recommendation, or unique to that gun?.

If Sig told me not to use wire brushes on any gun, that'd be good enough for me!:question:

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Complete field-strip clean and lube after firing for my semi pistols. Don't need to field strip a revolver, otherwise same thing. Ruger 10-22, pain in the ass to field strip so it gets wet patch, brush, wet patch again and dry patch untoil clean, then mag well cleaned and everything lubed.

All my little friends get treated to a rubown with RemOil wipes at least twice a month to prevent rust, etc. My revolvers get a RemOil patch in each chamber BEFORE a trip to the range so as to prevent cartridge sticking.

Aside from RemOilWipes I use Hoppes#9 solvent and Hoppes 9 lube. I don't think it is possible to improve on perfection.

I find that if you keep a firearm well cleaned and oiled, when you ask it to perform it wil answer :celebrate:celebrate:celebrate:celebrate:celebrate

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Alec411 (27 August 2008 Wednesday 15:10) says:

Regarding Sig's caution against using wire brushes in the misquito; I wish I knew if that is their standard recommendation, or unique to that gun?.

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The non-specific Preventative Maintenance Guide at the Sig-Sauer website (warning - PDF document), prepared by "SIGARMS Academy Staff", says:

Bore brushes can be of several types: nylon, brass or bronze, and stainless steel. The brass or bronze brush is recommended for cleaning the bore. Nylon bristles are rarely strong enough to loosen bore fouling and stainless steel bristles are overly aggressive due to their hardness.

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The Guide goes on to state that one should follow the specific instructions of the individual manufacturer. The generic user manual for P-series SIG pistols that I have doesn't specify a brush type. I myself don't know the recommendations for the Mosquito.

The Flash maintenance videos at the SIG-Sauer customer service page don't specify a brush type, but the gentleman demonstrating the procedure is clearly using a bronze/brass brush.

I suspect the friendly folks over at SIGForum might be able to tell you more.

Hope that's helpful.

regards,

GR

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Gentleman: I believe you answered my question re Sig's and brass brushes. I'll continue to use brass brushes, been using them for years anyway!

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Honestly? CLP every 1.5 range trips or so, and whenever I'm bored (which tends to be more often than the 1.5 range trips).

CLP all over, wipe down, wipe with a CLP-dampened rag (that I keep in a plastic box).

No problems.

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I started using Prolix on my XDM. Just take it apart, soak it all, scrub any extra dirty parts, wipe or let dry. Strain back into container with a coffee filter. No messy lube. Not too bad odor.

www.prolixlubricant.com

no I don't work for them

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I use Hoppe's for cleaning and CLP for lube on all my firearms. It usually does the job fine. The exception is my S&W 686 stainless revolver (my favorite handgun BY FAR!). After a heavy round of shooting at the range (150 or 200 rounds of .38 special, usually), the area where the cylinder meets the barrel gets incredibly fouled with black grime. I cannot for the life of me get this area clean. The rest of the firearm cleans up just fine. Does anyone have any recommendations for cleaning this area? It breaks my heart to see so much grime on the most beautiful handgun I own.

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They have "brass wool" down at the hardware store. That ought to enable you to scrub off the gunk without damaging your firearm.

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I know I'm going to be yelled at ...


buuuttt......



I cleaned my Glock when I first got it, even though it still had the factory lube/oil (didn't look like it had ever been shot)..... and out of curiousity, I wanted to see if all the hype about glocks was true, in terms of reliability/durability...

I've put about 1000 rounds through it in the past few months, haven't cleaned it yet... still looks spotless, and I have YET to have an FTF/FTE or any other malfunction.... Even using 'dirty' ammo...

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Most of my guns have had an initial coat of Rem Dry-Lube applied, this is essentially a Teflon coating suspended in a volatile hydrocarbon spray (use only in a well-ventilated area, keep away from plastic, rubber & skin)

Cheap paper towels for wipedown - the cheap ones tend to be abrasive enough to remove carbon fouling

Toothbrush for detailed cleaning

Boresnake/Gun Floss for bore cleaning

Rem-Oil for lubrication

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TechnoWeenie wrote:

I know I'm going to be yelled at ...


buuuttt......



I cleaned my Glock when I first got it, even though it still had the factory lube/oil (didn't look like it had ever been shot)..... and out of curiousity, I wanted to see if all the hype about glocks was true, in terms of reliability/durability...

I've put about 1000 rounds through it in the past few months, haven't cleaned it yet... still looks spotless, and I have YET to have an FTF/FTE or any other malfunction.... Even using 'dirty' ammo...

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Don't know much about Glocks except that I am one of those folks who doesn't think they are all that safe. However they do have the rep of being the AK47 of handguns.

Be that as it may, fouling can gunk up parts you don't see, like the bore and the internal works (trigger mechanism, mag release, etc.) and once it has built up to a certain degree accuracy and reliability will suffer. So now that your experiment has proven the hype, get some Hoppes and put some newspaper down on the kitchen table and give that sidearm a good cleaning. Any more of this and you risk damaging your firearm.

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My carry firearm gets alot more cleaning love than all my others. While it doesn't need it, and I would still trust it with my life after firing a couple thousand rounds without cleaning, I like to keep it looking nice

Anyways, Hoppes #9 and Hoppes Lubrication Oil.

Never needed to use a brass brush in my Sig. It always comes out clean after placing some Hoppes in the barrel and letting it sit for a few minutes... Of course I clean it first after I get home from the range everytime.

Have a double sided nylon brush that has a large toothbrush sized head on one side and than a really small brush not much bigger than 2 or 3 toothpicks width on the other.

And I like to do a full take down and cleaning at least once a month even if I don't fire it, and it gets a light oiling on the externals after a week of carrying.

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I saw a website where the author used WD-40 as the "solvent" and sprayed it liberally over all the parts of his pistols. The barrels received the usual brushing and patches, but the part that caught my attention was that he hosed everything down with compressed air so as to dry off the parts but leave a thin film of the WD-40 lubricant on the parts. I use ashop style air compressor with over 80 PSI to blow out the parts.

I have used this method on my Kahr CW45. After a couple hundred rounds it gets pretty dirty and the above mentioned method works real good for the plasticframe parts- the air blast really dries the trigger groupand thegrip, and the internal parts like the ejector and trigger link have a thin coating of lube left over. The slide striker and its spring assembly get hosed out until the spray runs clear and then the air blows out the excess '40. The barrel gets a liberal dose of WD and a patch, followed up by the traditional use of Hoppe's #9 solvent, a brush , cleaning patches and a light oiling. The slide and frame contact pointseach get a drop of LaRue's machine gun grease. I got a small applicator bottle of that wonder fluid from a friend. It is basically a moly type of lube. You don't need much to lube the Kahr contact points. When I run out of this small bottle I will use Hoppe's or Remoil lube.

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Cleaning a revolver

http://www.theboxotruth.com/docs/edu46.htm

The rest of his docs are good too. If you don't have a compressor, just use canned air.

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hanging_chad wrote:

Cleaning a revolver

http://www.theboxotruth.com/docs/edu46.htm

The rest of his docs are good too. If you don't have a compressor, just use canned air.

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Yes, and the lesson on cleaning your shotgun with a tampon is a classic !!

http://www.theboxotruth.com/docs/edu9.htm

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Does anyone else think G96Complete Gun Treatmentis just overpriced WD-40? It smells exactly the same...

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Windex, not a cheap Windex look alike. Boresnake & Hoppes #9.