Results 1 to 25 of 25

Thread: XD-45 Service Black 4" FS

  1. #1
    Regular Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    , ,
    Posts
    11

    Post imported post

    I'd like to get a CZ. Found one for 440. I'm broke.

    I will sell you my nearly new XD-45 black 4" service model with 3 magazines, cleaning kit and polished barrel for $400 even. I live in Tacoma. My email addy is chris.greyskull@gmail.com.

    If you're interested I can email some pics but I made a post on here not too long ago about trading and posted pics already so just search this forum for xd 45 trade cz or something like that.

    Help a brother out.

  2. #2
    Regular Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    , ,
    Posts
    11

    Post imported post

    Forgot to mention that I've only put about 300 or so rounds through it. Mostly Blazer brass and speer gold dot.

  3. #3
    Regular Member just_a_car's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Auburn, Washington, USA
    Posts
    2,558

    Post imported post

    So, are you looking for a CZ-97B like this one?: http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/Vie...Item=108319797

    If so, perhaps someone's willing to do a trade of some sort with you. Not myself, as I don't own one, but it's a possibility, if you're also interested in that.
    B.S. Chemistry UofWA '09
    KF7GEA

  4. #4
    Regular Member Mainsail's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Silverdale, Washington, USA
    Posts
    1,532

    Post imported post

    Have you talked to Mary over at Mary's Pistols? I doubt she'll trade you straight across, but she might make you a good deal in trade for one of their CZs.

  5. #5
    Regular Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    , ,
    Posts
    11

    Post imported post

    Went in today actually. They've got an older 75 with the spur hammer. Comes with 2 mags and is only $350. The most credit anyone is willing to give me for the XD is $325 or so. Might do it anyway. Money is just money.

  6. #6
    Regular Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    , ,
    Posts
    11

    Post imported post

    I did it. Traded at Mary's.

    Stoked on the CZ.

  7. #7
    Regular Member Mainsail's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Silverdale, Washington, USA
    Posts
    1,532

    Post imported post

    Chris.Greyskull wrote:
    I did it. Traded at Mary's.

    Stoked on the CZ.
    It was good seeing you there! I'm sorry we didn't have more time to talk, it was a hectic afternoon for me. I really like the CZs, and I'd have one if I didn't have so many other pokers in the fire right now. I think you did really well!

    But.....thanks to Dan, my AR is almost complete; I hope to be shooting it soon.

  8. #8
    Regular Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    , ,
    Posts
    11

    Post imported post

    Yeah, Mary and Dan are so far the nicest Gun people I've met so far. I definitely plan on doing more business with them.

    What parts did you make your AR build out of?

    Lower?
    Upper?

    I'm trying to decide on a entry level AR to get sometime next month. Thinking about a stag.

  9. #9
    Regular Member just_a_car's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Auburn, Washington, USA
    Posts
    2,558

    Post imported post

    Wade's has Stag Arms Upper/Bushmaster Lower, base CAR-15's (like an M4, they call it an M4, but that's a military designation) for $799+tax. (So, if taxes are still 9%, $870.91, as long as they don't charge a transfer fee)
    B.S. Chemistry UofWA '09
    KF7GEA

  10. #10
    Regular Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    , ,
    Posts
    11

    Post imported post

    Is that Wade's in Bellevue?

    http://www.wadesguns.com/

    Never been there. But that does sound like a good deal. Is it all new parts? Do they build their own ARs?

  11. #11
    Regular Member just_a_car's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Auburn, Washington, USA
    Posts
    2,558

    Post imported post

    Yes, yes, and I don't know. *chuckle*

    I took a friend there to help him out an try to prevent him getting swindled (which I did, since they tried to sell him an EOTech red dot and he got one for his purposes for $40 instead of the $400 they were charging). But, he also picked up an aluminum handguard rail system and rear rail iron sight which put him a little over $1300 (the sight was only $40, but I couldn't sway him from the rail system, even though I told him he could get as good a system online for less).
    B.S. Chemistry UofWA '09
    KF7GEA

  12. #12
    Regular Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    , ,
    Posts
    11

    Post imported post

    There's this Stag used for $699. It looks like what i'm interested though a detachable carry handle would be nice.

    http://www.beararms.com/product.asp?...=&NewType=

    The only thing I'm concerned with is being able to use the military 5.56 stuff. It seems alot of people advertise as both .223 and 5.56 but in reality it's a normal .223 chamber.

    I've also settled with the fact that it's going to be a trial and error thing since I'm completely new to guns.

  13. #13
    Regular Member Mainsail's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Silverdale, Washington, USA
    Posts
    1,532

    Post imported post

    Chris.Greyskull wrote:
    Yeah, Mary and Dan are so far the nicest Gun people I've met so far. I definitely plan on doing more business with them.

    What parts did you make your AR build out of?

    Lower?
    Upper?

    I'm trying to decide on a entry level AR to get sometime next month. Thinking about a stag.
    I got my lower from Dan, it’s a Rock River, to which I added the RR two stage trigger kit. I ordered this complete upper from AIM Surplus because it had pretty much everything I wanted. I’m not a fan of the carbine length hand guard with the 16” barrel, it looks wrong and the bayonet doesn’t mount. I wanted a 16” barrel with the mid-length hand guard.



  14. #14
    Regular Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Blaine, WA, ,
    Posts
    1,315

    Post imported post

    Mainsail wrote
    got my lower from Dan, it’s a Rock River, to which I added the RR two stage trigger kit. I ordered this complete upper from AIM Surplus because it had pretty much everything I wanted. I’m not a fan of the carbine length hand guard with the 16” barrel, it looks wrong and the bayonet doesn’t mount. I wanted a 16” barrel with the mid-length hand guard.

    That is a pretty good deal. They sell them for $625 on their site. You can get the same RRA upper with carrier handle and flip up rear sight for $620 though which is about $100 worth of stuff.

    When I built mine I went with Essential Arms lower and an RRA complete kit. Two stage trigger, six position stock, flat top upper, detachable carry handle. Made a nice rifle.

  15. #15
    Regular Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Tacoma, Washington, USA
    Posts
    36

    Post imported post

    Chris.Greyskull wrote
    snip
    The only thing I'm concerned with is being able to use the military 5.56 stuff. It seems alot of people advertise as both .223 and 5.56 but in reality it's a normal .223 chamber.
    I just read in a gun magazine I got that if you get the 5.56 you can shoot either but if you get the .223 you can only shoot the .223.

  16. #16
    Regular Member just_a_car's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Auburn, Washington, USA
    Posts
    2,558

    Post imported post

    d0od wrote:
    Chris.Greyskull wrote
    snip
    The only thing I'm concerned with is being able to use the military 5.56 stuff. It seems alot of people advertise as both .223 and 5.56 but in reality it's a normal .223 chamber.
    I just read in a gun magazine I got that if you get the 5.56 you can shoot either but if you get the .223 you can only shoot the .223.
    That is correct.

    With basic NATO rounds it's like this pressure-wise:
    5.56NATO > .223Rem
    .308Win > 7.62NATO

    BUT, when it comes to the 7.62x51NATO round, the biggest issue is when you're using commercial .308Win in violent extraction firearms like the G3 or CETME (which I own) because the brass is thinner on the case and there have been a few accounts of cases being ripped in half, leaving the neck and half the body in the chamber upon extraction. These old military guns may have been designed for lower pressure rounds, but they're also designed for full-auto sustained fire of up to a 30-round magazine... they can handle a few thousand extra psi; which, incidentally, is caused by the slight increase in case volume and charge weight from the thinner case wall. I use .308Win steel-cased Wolf in my CETME without issue, since there's very little chance of a case rupture or extractor bending a rim.
    B.S. Chemistry UofWA '09
    KF7GEA

  17. #17
    Regular Member Mainsail's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Silverdale, Washington, USA
    Posts
    1,532

    Post imported post

    Here it is all together:



  18. #18
    Regular Member
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Union, Washington, USA
    Posts
    3,256

    Post imported post

    just_a_car wrote:
    d0od wrote:
    Chris.Greyskull wrote
    snip
    The only thing I'm concerned with is being able to use the military 5.56 stuff. It seems alot of people advertise as both .223 and 5.56 but in reality it's a normal .223 chamber.
    I just read in a gun magazine I got that if you get the 5.56 you can shoot either but if you get the .223 you can only shoot the .223.
    That is correct.

    With basic NATO rounds it's like this pressure-wise:
    5.56NATO > .223Rem
    .308Win > 7.62NATO

    BUT, when it comes to the 7.62x51NATO round, the biggest issue is when you're using commercial .308Win in violent extraction firearms like the G3 or CETME (which I own) because the brass is thinner on the case and there have been a few accounts of cases being ripped in half, leaving the neck and half the body in the chamber upon extraction. These old military guns may have been designed for lower pressure rounds, but they're also designed for full-auto sustained fire of up to a 30-round magazine... they can handle a few thousand extra psi; which, incidentally, is caused by the slight increase in case volume and charge weight from the thinner case wall. I use .308Win steel-cased Wolf in my CETME without issue, since there's very little chance of a case rupture or extractor bending a rim.
    It is not pressure issue, it is a brass size issue.

  19. #19
    Regular Member Ajetpilot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Olalla, Kitsap County, Washington, USA
    Posts
    1,410

    Post imported post

    Mainsail wrote:
    Here it is all together:


    Sweet!!!


  20. #20
    Regular Member Mainsail's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Silverdale, Washington, USA
    Posts
    1,532

    Post imported post

    Thanks A-Jet! Here's another:



  21. #21
    Regular Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    , ,
    Posts
    11

    Post imported post

    Very nice Mainsail!

  22. #22
    Regular Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Monroe, Washington, USA
    Posts
    40

    Post imported post

    The more I see the midlength . . . the more I want one instead of a carbine.

    Slugger

  23. #23
    Regular Member Mainsail's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Silverdale, Washington, USA
    Posts
    1,532

    Post imported post

    Slugger wrote:
    The more I see the midlength . . . the more I want one instead of a carbine.

    Slugger
    For those who don’t know, there are two “standard” barrel lengths; the 16” minimum length, and the typical 20”. The real M4 uses a 14½” barrel and the carbine length hand-guard. Because we cannot buy a 14½” barrel off the shelf without some paperwork, we have to settle for the 16” barrel. (Some people cut theirs a few inches short and weld the flash hider on to make the min length, but that’s neither here nor there.) Now, with the 16” barrel you have two options for the hand-guard, a carbine length or the mid-length. The hand-guard length also determines where along the barrel the front sight and gas port will be, some think the gas traveling the extra length improves reliability. If we could have a 14½” barrel the carbine length hand-guard would look right, but with the extra 1½ inches, it looks a little off and the bayonet can’t be mounted. That’s why I went with the mid-length over the far more popular carbine length hand-guard.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •