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SIG P229 vs CZ75C

GunNovice

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I'm new at looking at handguns, and I was looking at the P229 platinum elite. I just love the way it looks. My question is a.) Is a sig worth the money? and b.) what's the deal with the beaver tail?Does it have any importance other than grip? or should I just go with the P229 that doesn't have the beaver tail? I fired the XDM .40 and loved it, but I need something that has a 10 round magazine available because I'll be moving to Hawaii and that's their law. How does the Sig compare to the XDM?
 

David.Car

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GunNovice wrote:
I'm new at looking at handguns, and I was looking at the P229 platinum elite. I just love the way it looks. My question is a.) Is a sig worth the money? and b.) what's the deal with the beaver tail?Does it have any importance other than grip? or should I just go with the P229 that doesn't have the beaver tail? I fired the XDM .40 and loved it, but I need something that has a 10 round magazine available because I'll be moving to Hawaii and that's their law. How does the Sig compare to the XDM?
A. Sigs are most definitly worth every penny you pay for them. You will be hard pressed to find any firearm made as well and as efficient as a Sig. (Of course this might get me flamed by the Glock crowd, but hey, I rather have a reliable piece of metal than a reliable piece of plastic)

B. The beaver tail as you see on the P229 Platinum is the same one they put on all of their Elite models. Now this is more of just a personal taste than anything else. Its really not going to have any measureable effect on your shooting.

If you have a range that rents firearms I would suggest getting out and trying the 229 and than also trying the 226 (both in .40) they both hold 10 rounds.

Now as far as going with the platinum elite. It is your decision completely, and since it is your first firearm I definitly thing it is good to go with something special. But you might also consider other options that will save you 4, 5 maybe even 6 hundred dollars vs the elite models.
 

GunNovice

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What is the DAK trigger system and how does it differ from a regular trigger?
 

David.Car

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DAK is a Double Action Only pistol that had a reduced weight pull.

DAO means the hammer resets after every shot. There is no single action. The DAK is a DAO with a lighter pull.

Most sigs are DA/SA. Which makes the first pull a heavy double action, than every follow up shot is the shorter and lighter single action pull.

A lot of people say they have a hard time getting used to the DA/SA. I on the other hand adapted to it very quickly and for me and IMO (take it what it is worth, nothing) it is a fantastic shooting mode. I am more accurate with it, I find the principal of the only safety being you and a slightly longer first trigger pull to be fool proof and won't ever cause a problem in any situation you get into.

Again, as with most things, I would suggest trying them both yourself at a range that rents firearms and going with what you shoot better with, and feel more comfortable using.

Edit: Example from Sigs own product specs shows that a DAK 226 has a 6.5 lb trigger pull every shot. A DA/SA 226 will have a 10 lb first pull, than every other round will have only a 4.5 lb pull.

One thing you can do that makes those DA/SA even easier to shoot with is have a little trigger work done and you can have the DA shot be closer to 6-7 pounds and than all the SA shots more around 2-3.
 

David.Car

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One thing I forgot to include is that there are DAO handguns that have lighter trigger pulls than a Sig DAK. One example is a glock striker system. The difference between these two is that if you pull the trigger on a glock and the round does not go BANG. You can not pull the trigger again to see if the round will fire on the second strike.

With a glock the slide does need to move back in order to prime the DAO system. Which in my mind makes the gun a SA only trigger... But that is neither here nor there, and probably could be debated to no end....

A Sig DAK trigger will strike a primer with every pull of the trigger, it does not need to be reset in the case of a misfire such as a Glocks (lighter) DAO
 

Walleye

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My SIG is finally on it's way from the seller to my dealer, so now I have to get some 'supporting gear' !

I'd like to get an IWB holster for concealed carry (I currently carry my M39-2 in a belt loop holster which should also fit my 226 if I need to), but I've been thinking about trying a shoulder holster for better concealment as winter comes up. Any good advice there?
 

deepdiver

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Walleye wrote:
I'd like to get an IWB holster for concealed carry (I currently carry my M39-2 in a belt loop holster which should also fit my 226 if I need to), but I've been thinking about trying a shoulder holster for better concealment as winter comes up. Any good advice there?
See my new review in the holsters sub-forum on the C-Tac Minotaur MTAC holster.
 

Walleye

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I am now the proud owner of a SIG Sauer P226!


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Thanks for the advice everybody, you helped a lot. I'm glad I can join the SIG club now.:cool:
 

Walleye

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I honestly always wanted one in the exact same state as the one I got... No rail, old style stamped slide, just basic. Just feels more natural than the rail equipped ones. It even fits the holster I have for my S&W, so that's a major bonus too.
 

SigSour

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Its...Its So beautiful....(Sorry something in my eye):)I purchased a new 229R a few months agoand picked up a factory refurb without the rail 3 months ago. Best guns I have ever shot!

"There are two kinds of people. Those who own Sigs and those that wish they did"



Congrats !!
 
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