Reloading

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One of the issues I had to address with my first reloading session was the reconcilation of powder and bullet types. I believe I had a 115gr XTP bullet. I had purchased Hodgdon's HS6 powder. The chart did not even list that powder/bullet combination.

I had to use the knowledge I gained by reading the general manual (Lee's in this case) to determine the route to use with my very first reload! Manuals always indicate the importance of never exceeding the maximum allowable loads so I was a bit aprehensive about proceeding. I found the loads listed for 115gr jacketed bullets worked just fine.

I loaded 5 rounds at each grain level beginning with the starting load. I shot them at the range beginning with the lowest loads, and everything went very well.

In regard to competition, I had read on another forum that some competitors found a difference in performance amongst bullet/powder combinations. I have no idea where I saw this, but a competition forum might be able to lead you toward bullet/powder selection which will start you on your way.

As I recall, each shooter had varying preferences depending upon their particular pistol, stance, grip strength, etc. It sounds like some of these folks have built it into a specialized science.

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When it comes to (handgun) powder, where do you purchase it? I see that purchases onlineinclude a HazMat charge, is also true when purchasing from the store? And, what store would I be seeking this component of reloading? I guess the extra charge would also be included with primer purchases as well?



Custom.45acp

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I usually go to Cabelas. Their prices aren't the best, but then again, they are hard to beat with that hazmat charge, unless you buy in bulk. The hazmat fee does NOT apply to you at the store.

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I am still using my first pound of powder. I picked it up at Gander Mtn. I have seen powder in several other stores which carry reloading equipment. The 1# container seems to be running just under $20 at present.

1# equates to 7,000 grains. I use roughly 8 grains per cartridge. This is why I purchased my equipment and book first. I figured this would give me time to better select a powder as well as study the process and familiarize myself with the equipment.

Regarding powder, shotguns and pistols often use the same powder types. Rifle cartridges use a different type. One of the more popular powders used by competition shooters is named "Clays" due to its use in shooting clays. I have no intention of paying hazmat charges for shipping powder. We save alot of money buying it off the shelf or from gun shows.

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Michigander wrote:

marshaul wrote:

How do you polish after loading?

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Steel wool, or by putting the loaded rounds back in the tumbler.

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Yeah, but can't that cause your powder to change its burn characteristics?

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marshaul wrote:

Yeah, but can't that cause your powder to change its burn characteristics?

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This is a very common misconception, it's even believed by some ammo manufacturers. But no, it won't. I've talked to people who did a test with a chronograph, and they said there was no difference. I do it a lot, and I have yet to be troubled by it.

If you want to try it, but you are worried about it, my advice is to either try using a chrono, or tumble a round for like 12 hours, then pull the bullet and pour the powder out, and compare it to powder fresh from the bottle.

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Good advice, thanks.

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Just out of curiosity, why polish them after they've been loaded? To get rid of finger prints? I have not reloaded yet, but why would anyone tumble something that has points and primers? Sounds a little scary to me!

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custom.45acp wrote:

Just out of curiosity, why polish them after they've been loaded? To get rid of finger prints? I have not reloaded yet, but why would anyone tumble something that has points and primers? Sounds a little scary to me!

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There is no where near enough energy in a tumbler to pop a primer, at least as far as I've seen.

I've re polished the casings for a variety of reasons. If I want to be super sure that they will feed, I will do everything I can to make them super shiny. Or if I had a large box of ammo outside at the Pit, and somehow it gets dirty, like for instance if someone puts empties in with the loaded rounds, that's when they need to be cleaned again later.

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I hated to mention this previously, but I must confess that I have never polished my brass. I was hesitant to mention this because: 1) I am fairly new to reloading; 2) I'm truly disinterested in anyone's opinion of the appearance of my brass; 3) It is sure to bring some unwanted replies.

The Lee manual indicates there is no documented advantage in polishing brass. Whether I make a tumbler or purchase one, the additional time and space required is not attractive to me.

I do use a primer pocket tool to clean out primer debris. I wipe the inside of each casing with a Q-tip to ensure no debris has collected in the casing. These steps allow me to hand inspect each casing to ensure they have not been damaged.

Much of my brass is a well-tarnished brown. They chamber and fire just fine.

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With my .45, I don't worry so much about it. It'll eat just about anything. But it's nice to have shiny rounds with sealant on the primers in your carry mags.

It's with my FAL, (which is known to jam in below 0 weather, or when dry, or when it gets sandy) that I to use every trick in the book to keep it as reliable as possible. And yes, I have attributed some jamming to nasty brass.

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That's a good point. I only use factory rounds in my carry mags. I only use reloads for target practice. If I either carried reloads, or used them in competition (as custom.45acphas indicated he does), I would ensure they were flawless in every manner.

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After looking online for a brass tumbler and comparing it to the rock tumbler, (I used to have) I can see the difference and why there would be an unlikelihood of any disastrous accident. Brass tumblers are vibratory were as the rock actually roll the rocks over onto each other. Makes sense now. Thanks for the learning tip.

Custom.45acp

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Well, I received a Lee C press yesterday. Now, I just have to locate components to start loading; primers, powder and bullets.

Custom.45acp

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custom.45acp wrote:

Well, I received a Lee C press yesterday. Now, I just have to locate components to start loading; primers, powder and bullets.

Custom.45acp

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Are you ever in the Grand Rapids area?

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Hcidem wrote:

I hated to mention this previously, but I must confess that I have never polished my brass. I was hesitant to mention this because: 1) I am fairly new to reloading; 2) I'm truly disinterested in anyone's opinion of the appearance of my brass; 3) It is sure to bring some unwanted replies.

The Lee manual indicates there is no documented advantage in polishing brass. Whether I make a tumbler or purchase one, the additional time and space required is not attractive to me.

I do use a primer pocket tool to clean out primer debris. I wipe the inside of each casing with a Q-tip to ensure no debris has collected in the casing. These steps allow me to hand inspect each casing to ensure they have not been damaged.

Much of my brass is a well-tarnished brown. They chamber and fire just fine.

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I've been reloading for a couple years now give or take, and have never tumbled my brass. I also have a friend who has been reloading for several years and he never cleaned his brass either (don't know if it's still the case). He's even shot IPSC with dirty brass.

IMHO, the main advantage to shiny brass is the ability to easier detect flaws and cracks in the case. Dirt and grime can cover such things up, whereas a shiny case will better expose them. Another advantage is that the shiny bras doesn't gunk up the reloading dies nearly as fast. Remember that every time you run a dirty case in your dies, some of that dirt stays in the dies. I've yet to have a problem with it (I must have run about 4k rounds through my 9mm dies), but then I don't reload large amounts.

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custom.45acp wrote:

After looking online for a brass tumbler and comparing it to the rock tumbler, (I used to have) I can see the difference and why there would be an unlikelihood of any disastrous accident. Brass tumblers are vibratory were as the rock actually roll the rocks over onto each other. Makes sense now. Thanks for the leaning tip.

Custom.45acp

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FYI

Some brass tumblers are rotary.

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Yes, I am occasionally in the GR area. Is there a place to purchase reloading components?

I realized that (about the rotary tumblers) after I made that comment (I am new to the reloading arena.)


Custom.45acp

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custom.45acp wrote:

Yes, I am occasionally in the GR area. Is there a place to purchase reloading components?

I realized that (about the rotary tumblers) after I made that comment (I am new to the reloading arena.)


Custom.45acp

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Yes, there are places in GR.

I know of Gander Mountain for various items including components and equipment. Rylee's Ace Hardware has a small sellection, but Greg would be very helpful to talk to as well as Barry. The place I get most of my components is Dan's Sport and Ammo on West River Drive. He's also a good guy to get help from.

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I'm glad to hear a good review about Dan's Sports and Ammo, ghostrider. His place really is a hole-in-the-wall. He seems like a really good guy to know.

I had spoken with him briefly before reloading, but haven't been back since. What supplies have you purchased from him? Also, have you ever used his FFL service?