problem with firing pin

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Hey there,

I have a really nice S&W 66-5 and have recently been experiencing some inconsistent mis fire issues. It is only occurring when I use the double action. If I single action, in other words draw the hammer back and then pull the trigger it functions just fins. I checked the main spring tension and its not the problem. Is it possible that the firing pin has worn down just enough to prevent enough impact in the double action mode? Or am I possibly seating my primers too deep for this particular revolver? I have not had any problem with the same loads being fired through my model 60 and have checked the extended pin on both which has determined that the M-66-5 doesn't strike as deep as the M-60 does. Ivery seldom shoot double action so never really had the opportunity to notice this problematic issue before now and I've been shooting this particular revolver for about 3 years.

Thanks

gamestalker

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I had similar problems with a GP100 until I reworked primer pockets on the new Winchester brass I was using. I did everything under the sun to the gun with no improvement until either using factory ammo or reworking primer pockets. The Winchester brass pockets were not parallel to the case head or square side to bottom causing the primer to seat on a small spot only. Single action hits slightly harder than double making double action more sensitive.



New Winchester Brass stinks.



Good luck

imported post

The hammernose is part of the hammer and must be fitted as a unit, to the revolver. You did say you did tighten the strain spring ? Next check for dirt in the channel. Are you completeing the pull on the trigger all the way to the rear during double action?

Then yes may be, the seating depth of the primers.

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I'm an idiot! I took the firing pin out and actually inspected it and sure enough it is chipped and short by just enough to qualify for under specification length. I should have known though because I've been reloading for almost 30 years and have never had one single mis fire, not one. And with it rather consistently occurring while using double action is a pretty good indication the pin is short, or the main spring is weak which wasn't the case. I bought a new firing pin today and the problem is now solved for probably another couple of thousand rounds or so. more importantly is that a $2 problem could have cost me my life in a personal defense situation! Thanks for your response too!

gamestalker

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I'm glad to hear your problem is solved . Thanks for letting us know what the real problem was.

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Didn't intend to over state my circumstances seemingly unnecessarily,so, thought the heads up regarding this easy to over look malfunction that could put someone in a defenseless situation warranted the explanation in detail to be tasteful and appropriate. This subject could easily migrate into one primarily focused on firearm care and maintenance. Certainlydue to me failing to inspect my firing pin at each cleaning ,which is always, post usage, immediately following such usage. I'm a bit eccentric in how I maintain each of my firearms and possibly just simply eccentric as an individual. However, when sitting and shooting from a bench I'm probably unnoticed most of the time between shots. Another cause of my warn down firing pin is the fact that my near 3 decades of reloading has been to achieve shoot onlythe highest velocity loads available from reliable data sources, Speer, Nosler, and so on. Even though the loads I shoot through my S&W .357 areconsidered safe they stillproduce inherently higher pressures than standard velocity loads produce and can cause an occasional firing pinto deform or other wise fail.My current favorite load for my .357 is delivering an average velocity of 1972 fps using a 125 XPX HP. This same load is also producing an estimated cup of 41,000 and does cause some wear and tear. The price I pay for my life long fascination with high velocity and accurate firearms.
gamestalker

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really?? 1972FPS? at only 4100pressure? that is astounding to me . i dont handload, but i look at alotta loading charts. are you shooting that 357 outava carbine, with a 24"barrel?? tell me more.

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No Sir, out of a model 66-5 S&W and a slightly higher velocity out of my Taurus model 608. I've always used the slowest burn rate powders for the given cartridge and thus maintain acceptable cup estimates and visual inspection for high pressure signs as well have been good. I'm also a stickler for case prep andloading procedures, and of course my bullet choice is consistent with these velocities to prevent any separation or deformation issues that would probably present with run of the mill projectiles. 23 grains ofH110 is what I use with .357 but W296 will produce very similar results. I wouldn't recommend Speer GD for this powder charge as those are quick expanding bullets and are intended for short barreled guns and will open prematurely at those velocities. I tried them at just under 1600 fps and they were accurate and seemed to stay togetherbut anything above thatwouldprobably cause some problems. I load a 120 grain Nosler for my 7mm that is producing velocities in the mid 3700 fps range with excellent paper punching properties. I've been loading for almost 30 years and can never go back to factory after seeing the spectacular improvement in over all performance and reliability. Although, reloading in my opinion is something that should be done with every possible precaution and short cuts have to be avoided. Especially when it regards powder charging. I only weigh my charges, I don't use volumetric devices, ever, even though I utilize show burning powders which is not the norm. Most loaders will load primarily for economics and that can get a guy in trouble with those fast burning powders. In most cartridges you can actually fill the cartridge to the top and compress the load with slow burning powders without pressure issues. But to make even a small error in charge weight with a fast burning powder will produce excessive and dangerous pressures. Its virtually impossible to accidentally double charge with the slow burning powders as it would spill out of the cartridge, where as with the fast burningstuff you wouldn't notice the double charge until you pull the trigger and blow your gun up! Back in the early 1980s I used to literally fill my .270 cartridges to the top with IMR4350 and the only noticeable result was consistent velocities and accuracy. Compress loads with many cartridges using a super slow burning powder is a safe and common practice, and common among bench rest shooters. My apologies for the lesson in reloading but I simply just love to engage in this subject and more so physically build loads for personal defense, hunting, and of course punching paper at long range, 500 yds. and up. I shoot my revolvers at 100 yds. plusand can tell you from experience that factory ammo in that application is lucky to get on the paper unless by accident. I don't load SWC or any other lead projectile ever as it utilizes fast powders and craps up the gun something terrible, to the extent cleaning all of it out of the bore can damage the surface of the boreover time. This subject will usually get lots of critics upset who load nothing but that lead crap. They usually make comments to the effect that I must be rich to shoot only jacketed stuff when actually loading decent jacketed stuff can be done for around $7.00 per 50 round box for most handguns which isn't that much more expensive than loading lead crap. Sub velocity loads don't flip my switch, pull my trigger, float my boat, you get the point. I also don't like my hands turning grey after shooting a box of that nasty I like to watch a jack rabbit explode into pieces when I shoot it with a handgun, that is pure unadulterated raw power and will astound anyone seeing it for the first time.

gamestalker

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It sounds like you are in the ballpark of Hodgdons specs of 22 Gr. H110,125Gr HDY. XTP, 41400 CUP yielding 1966FPS.

My GP100 seems to like that sort of load also.



Enjoy

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hi gamestalker; thanx for the info, ive only seen published load data. i had no idea that kind of preformance could be had. can you get super FPS out of a .380? 9MM? how about a load for a 9X23? im trying to buy some star modelo supers.

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.357 Cases have considerably more case capacity than the .380, 9x19 etc. which allows large charges of slow powder. It is not possible to do the same typehot rodding with them.

You must have a strong gun to use max power loads also. Not just any .357 pistol will stand up to what gamestalker is talking about.

As the normal disclaimer says "Don't try this at home".

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Your absolutely correct on all points! Shooting high velocity loads is only safe when used in a high quality firearm due to the max pressures generated. And regarding the .380 or 9x23 loads, one can obtain higher than factory velocity but nothing of the near 2000 fps obtainable with a .357 or some of the other magnum cartridges made for t his application. I've however done some interesting stuff with the 9mm and achieved velocities in the mid 1600 fps range. But again, it can not be done safely with a standard quality firearm. I watched as a friend insisted in shooting this load through his Star 9mm and it blew the slide right off. My Glock, Taurus 92, and some of the other full chambered firearms will tolerate such a load without any problems. Quality is the key here and as well something to consider when buying any firearm for any purpose, you get what you pay for in most cases. I don't really think I can illustrate or imply it with strong enough terminology how important it is to buy quality when purchasing a firearm, even ifan individualdoesn't shoot high velocity reloads. The worst case scenario I've ever encountered with my loads is wearing a firing pin down a little quicker than factory ammo may have. But when I pull the trigger I feel confident the firearm will stay together and deliver the accuracy I desire, suchhas been the case for nearly 30 years of loading. I'm sure everyone has seen those Hi Point firearms around for a little over $100. My Son bought one a while back just for the heck of it and it literally wouldn't get on the paper at a only25 feet, not yards. Upon collecting some of the spent bullets it was clear as to why, the lands and groves being visible only on one side of the bullets. Very poor workmanship and useless as a personal defense weapon unless one had the barrel pressed against the perpetrator and even then it still may miss its intended target!

gamestalker

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Now that is a gun that is nearly indestructible and as accurate as well! I'm a big fan of the Ruger product line and have never had a problem with any of their firearms. I also love the Red Label shotguns too. I'll take one of those over a Browning any day of the week.

gamestalker

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hi gamestalker, my thoughts were that i would get some winchester 9X23 just for test and self defence use! im gonna buy a bunch of spanish 9mm largo ammo for the plinking. do you think the winchester would blow it up, like the load in your friends gun did? ps. im assuming my star modelo super is in really good condition!