Kimber Rust

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I recently acquired a Kimber Custom II. It's basically a good gun, better fit and finish, accuracy, and smoothness than the Taurus PT1911 I used to have. However, the barrel on the Taurus never rusted! The Kimber barrel rusts quicker than a nail at the beach. I clean my stuff regularly and thoroughly, and no matter how often I clean and oil it, the barrel starts to rust within hours (I use Hoppes No. 9 products). I know there are threads about this elsewhere in the interwebs, but have any of you guys had this problem? What did you do?

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On the outside of the barrel or inside?

Is the barrel blued, or stainless?

I've been considering a Kimber, depending on the circumstances of this rust I may reevaluate.

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Outside. The barrel is, I think, carbon steel. As I said, I like everything else about the gun a lot, but this rust thing makes me hesitate to recommend it. Also, I should mention that I live in a moderately high altitude, semi-arid climate.

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Are you sure it is rust? I have had Hoppes #9 leave an orangeish film on blued steel in the past.

I'm no fan of Kimbers, but it might be prudent to consider other products before making a final determination on the Kimber. Also, if it turns out to be the gun having an issue, your first move should be to contact Kimber CS before complaining about them on a public site, just my opinion.

For 1911s, I have found nothing works better than cleaning w/Hoppes #9 and then using FP-10 for lube/storage. It does not dry up the way Hoppes does and will keep the firearm lubricated for a much longer period of time. It is also much better as an actual lube for the rails/contact points. I will only trust FP-10 in my carry sidearms. You'l find the rails to still be wet w/lube even a month or two after application. Not sure if you are using anything other than the Hoppes, but I would consider it.

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Yea, I too will ask if you are sure it is rust, Hoppes will leave a protective coating that should prevent rust for some time. I also have a Kimber with a carbon barrel and have never had any issues.

Are you sure that it is not a stainless bbl and is not being impregnated with carbon particulate somehow.



Steve

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I have two Kimbers that I've had for 3-4 years and no rust here. If it is rust, Kimber WILL fix the problem for you.

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I'm pretty sure the barrel is brushed carbon steel. The rust forms as a multitude of small pinpricks that gradually get larger. I manage to get the rust off with a metal cloth, and I acquired some FP-10. I'll try it and see.

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Ok.
That sounds very unusual, but the question has not been asked: what kind of ammo are you shooting?

Old surp .45 can be corrosive. Also careless/"thrifty" reloaders may use corrosive primers. The humidity in your area will play a huge role.

Many solvents/mixes do leave a film, I feel in a barrel that this should be patched out. Outside, should be gently polished with a oiled or sil guncloth.

If there is no "rust" on the action. You should be good.
Your situation is unusual to say the least, in an arid enviro, wth?

If u r shooting corrosive ammo make sure to pop out the barrel, and neutralize all the contact points including action and muzzle/brake.

Pics plz??

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Win Silvertips and Fiocchi fmj and jhp. If the problem shows up I'll take a pic. It is rust, not a film/residue left by product.

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New. I haven't had any failures of any kind so far, but I've only put about 100 rounds through. I haven't noticed a particular problem with crud buildup. Like I said, the gun has been great except for the rust issue. My PT1911 was much dirtier and prone to FTFs with hps.

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Hm.
Well, here is my advice:
1911's are not polymer guns, you know? They require a little more TLC.

All guns, ones with steel parts, plastic parts, wooden parts and titanium parts, require a certain level of maintenance. They're machines and as such take some upkeep. I'm not saying you don't take good care of your guns, I'm sure you do, but lots of folks have a kinda fire and forget attitude.

I'm still not 100% sure I understand what kind of finish you have on there, brushed steel? Maybe nickeled?

At any rate, I would advise thoroughly cleaning it after shooting.
2. Cleaning the exterior thoroughly and removing all solvent.
3. Using a good oil or wax to coat the surface of the gun. You may want to consider using metal conditioners to impregnate the steel. If using waxes, make sure the exterior is good and clean of oil and buff all the excess out. Don't want any of it to gum up internals.
4. After a day of carry, shooting or handling, wipe the gun down using a oiled guncloth or silicone cloth. This is a good habit to develop, and will do much to prolong the finish.
5. Storage, don't know where you keep it, but I advise a place relatively devoid of salts, humid air and exhaust. A non sequiter, friend of mine stored a parkerized 1911 in a cigar shop (not in a humidor) the smoke and air pollutants wore that finish to hell.

I know its a utility piece, not a family heirloom, and although it would be nice to be maintenence free,,,you'll have to wipe that sucker down daily and whatnot.

My .02

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Wow carbon steel! Reminds me of a knife I bought years ago. I was told when I bought it from the salesman to keep it rust free to use brasso after cleaning it. So I might recomend actually putting on a good coating of oil on the barrel after you clean your pistol just before you assemble it.



I am also wondering if you might be able to get a stainless barrel for it and maybe if you do, have the barrel and slide done in a match grade to maybe get the benefit of a better performing firearm.

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heliopolissolutions wrote:

Hm.
Well, here is my advice:
1911's are not polymer guns, you know? They require a little more TLC.

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Most of the pieces in my collection are not polymer guns. I am well versed in typical gun care, thank you. The point of my original post is that this barrel is rusting even with average and an above average level of care. I am curious if any other (ex)Kimber owners on the forum have had a similar problem.

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Faceplant wrote:

Wow carbon steel! Reminds me of a knife I bought years ago. I was told when I bought it from the salesman to keep it rust free to use brasso after cleaning it. So I might recomend actually putting on a good coating of oil on the barrel after you clean your pistol just before you assemble it.



I am also wondering if you might be able to get a stainless barrel for it and maybe if you do, have the barrel and slide done in a match grade to maybe get the benefit of a better performing firearm.

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Carbon steel is what many 1911 (parts also) are made from. He would be better off keeping the original barrel as replacing on one a gun such as a Kimber would require a gunsmith to fit the new barrel to the bushing, which as you can imagine is entirely more work than is wanted/needed.

To the OP: My guess is the FP-10 will fix the issue. If not, my next move would be to contact Kimber. Chances are pretty good you won't get any more helpful advice here.

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I owneda Kimber afew yearsago. It was a Custom II and it rusted as well. Like youmy weapons are kept very clean and oiled. The way I corrected the problem is I sold it. That pistol was one of the reasons I didn't own a 1911 for a while.



-Gruu

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TehGruu wrote:

I owneda Kimber afew yearsago. It was a Custom II and it rusted as well. Like youmy weapons are kept very clean and oiled. The way I corrected the problem is I sold it. That pistol was one of the reasons I didn't own a 1911 for a while.



-Gruu

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ya thats the weirdest thing...I carry a colt 1911 and I can run it hard and put it away wet and the damn thing just wont rust. I dont know if its just colt's steel or what but I love not having to worry about it.

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Just talked to Kimber CS... The person I talked to was friendly and helpful. They offered to pay to have to barrel shipped out to them where they would examine it and polish it up. So far the FP-10 has kept the rust down better than the previous oils - only a few pinpricks on the underside of the barrel.

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petrophase wrote:

Problem #1: I recently acquired a Kimber Custom II.

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Problem #2: the Taurus PT1911 I used to have.

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Get serious about your safety and get a Glock!

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Ha! No thanks, I prefer Croatian plastic...

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For the record: ALL steel is "carbon steel".

Steel is made by adding carbon to iron.

It's like saying "Water: now with added H²O!"

Or ATM Machine, or PIN Number, or JAC Card here near JMU.