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Thread: Can you haggle over price on any new gun?

  1. #1
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    if the gun i'm looking at has a msrp of $505 what should i pay for it?

    is there a way to find out how much a dealer pays for invoice like you can with a car?



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    Regular Member goforlow's Avatar
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    Not enough info to tell you what to pay. But, of course you can haggle over the price. You do not have to pay MSRP for anything if you don't want to. Some stores will not sell to you for anything other than the prices on the "sticker", but some will. Try and find out.

    As for a list of dealers cost? I do not know of any. But the dealer that buys 5 guns a year and the stores like Gander Mountain that buy 500 a year will have different prices.

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    Regular Member tcmech's Avatar
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    Not sure what your local dealers are like but if you are willing to walk away from a purchase if they won't meet your price then haggle with them.
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    You have a better chance of haggling over the price if you buy at a gun show. Go in with the exact amount of cash you intend to spend on the purchase. Pull the cash and tell the seller you are willing to spend $XXX.XX on the purchase.

    That flash of cashy money might be enough to push a deal through.
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    My suggestion for market pricing estimation.

    The Internet is your friend.

    Check Buds Guns through the Powersearch feature and then think about the normal dealer transfer fees. It's a common sense search enginefor finding all kinds of stuff (scopes, bi-pods, rifles, rangefinder, you name it). While I am sure everyone has their favorite sources, these are my goto's for specs, pics, availabilityand basic pricing information.

    http://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/a...h.php?cated=40

    Check Impact Gunsfor their store prices.

    http://www.impactguns.com/store/index.html


    Check Cabela's by searching in Google for "Cabela's M&P .40" (example of gun name).

    As for haggling, if you live in a competitive market you should always be able to get the chains (Sportsmen's, Cabela's, gander, etc.) to meet each others' lowest pricing so don't hesitate to ask. You need to consider carefully whether you're going to expect a smaller, independentdealer to meet chain pricing. They oftentimesdon't have the economies ofscale to lower price or cost so decide what the level of service and value are from them before beating them up unfairly.

    Shopping is fun.

    Enjoy!

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    what about the brady check fee?

    the one dealer charges $25

    he wants to sell me a gun with a msrp of $505 for $485 + $25 brady and tax

    should i offer $475 plus the other bs?

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    ecocks wrote:
    My suggestion for market pricing estimation.

    The Internet is your friend.

    Check Buds Guns through the Powersearch feature and then think about the normal dealer transfer fees. It's a common sense search enginefor finding all kinds of stuff (scopes, bi-pods, rifles, rangefinder, you name it). While I am sure everyone has their favorite sources, these are my goto's for specs, pics, availabilityand basic pricing information.

    http://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/a...h.php?cated=40

    Check Impact Gunsfor their store prices.

    http://www.impactguns.com/store/index.html


    Check Cabela's by searching in Google for "Cabela's M&P .40" (example of gun name).

    As for haggling, if you live in a competitive market you should always be able to get the chains (Sportsmen's, Cabela's, gander, etc.) to meet each others' lowest pricing so don't hesitate to ask. You need to consider carefully whether you're going to expect a smaller, independentdealer to meet chain pricing. They oftentimesdon't have the economies ofscale to lower price or cost so decide what the level of service and value are from them before beating them up unfairly.

    Shopping is fun.

    Enjoy!
    +1

    Also, realize the small gun dealer or gun-show dealer is going to be familiar with Internet data, and other market information. If he is any sort of haggler himself, expect to be countered. For example,

    You: "Yeah, yeah. But, I can get this gun fromFreds Wonderful Guns internet site for$60 dollars less."

    Him: "Yes. But, you will spend $50 on transfer fees and shipping. So, really you are only paying a $10 premium to be able to get the gun today instead of in two weeks. That's a bargain! Will you be paying with cash orcredit card?"

    The moral is that the more information you have, the better. But, don't forget you are haggling in his area of expertise. So, be prepared to counter-counter-haggle.
    I'll make you an offer: I will argue and fight for all of your rights, if you will do the same for me. That is the only way freedom can work. We have to respect all rights, all the time--and strive to win the rights of the other guy as much as for ourselves.

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    ericfrompahrump wrote:
    what about the brady check fee?

    the one dealer charges $25

    he wants to sell me a gun with a msrp of $505 for $485 + $25 brady and tax

    should i offer $475 plus the other bs?
    Did you read what I wrote? That's the dealer transfer/handling fee. Check prices on the Internet and add the fee,then look over the chainswith local presence in your market. Remember taxes. Make your decision as to source.

    Of course, if you would just name the firearm model and style you want, you'd get a lot more specific infomation from the people on this forum who are willing to help despite your history to date.

    BTW, no one really gives a damn about the firearm's MSRP so quit mentioning it. This isn't really anything like buying a car. We work from cost up, not MSRP down.



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    i know its a long gun

    http://www.remington.com/products/fi...-tactical.aspx

    thinking about this one also

    http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/w...layErrorView_Y

    i think some of the dealers in my area are hurting



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    In Las Vegas for the 870 I'd check Dick's and expect to pay roughly $460-470+tax.

    For the S&W 686 w/ 6" barrel, I'd expect to pay around $710-720+tax.

    You can get the S&W from Buds for $650+transfer fee from Buds.

    You go to the dealers nearest you (or call) and ask what they will charge for a transfer fee. When you are sure you know their total add-on charge(s) to complete the purchase, you decide who you will use, get their FFL number and order it from Buds to be shipped to that dealer.

    Good luck.

  11. #11
    Regular Member Jack House's Avatar
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    ecocks wrote:
    BTW, no one really gives a damn about the firearm's MSRP so quit mentioning it. This isn't really anything like buying a car. We work from cost up, not MSRP down.
    More about this please.

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    I'm not a dealer, just explaining to Eric that this industry is not like buying a car. No one pays attention to MSRP. Dealers work from what they pay (cost) then adjust priceup to cover profit, overheadandfee charges.

    You can see this from the advertising, no one quotes MSRP and discount figures during the sales process.

  13. #13
    Regular Member Jack House's Avatar
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    I see, any general advice for buying a gun?

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    I usually go to GunBroker.com and watch for a few days or weeks to see what they are going for. Sometimes you can find great deals sometimes not.

    By the time you add shipping (tax if applicable) transfer fee and the time waiting for the auction to end and shipping to take it is sometimes better if you can find it locally. I found my local dealer averages about $100 over what I can get online but sometimes that $100 is $300 so it makes sense to do your homework online first.

    Also at most guns auction sites if you pay by credit card they charge 3-5% extra.

    The main reason I buy online is selection. Most gun shops deal in a few brands and have a pretty limited selection. Gun shows "can" be better but come around only every couple months.

    So haggling locally is possible but I would think with the cost of the storefront you aren't going to save a large percentage. You are always capable of making an offer and if the gun has sat there long enough they may take it.



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    Haggling is always an option.

    Best strategy is to say here is XXX amount of money. and lay out the cash in front of them. Then dont say anything. let them think. If they say no. Walk away. Most of the time they will stop you before you leave because they decided they want the money.

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    ericfrompahrump wrote:
    i know its a long gun

    http://www.remington.com/products/fi...-tactical.aspx

    thinking about this one also

    http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/w...layErrorView_Y

    i think some of the dealers in my area are hurting

    ¬*
    I have an 870 Express Tactical and paid much less than $505 for it at a local gun store last Fall/Winter. Shot 3 hand tossed clays out of the air with it the other weekend.
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    LegitMW wrote:
    Haggling is always an option.

    Best strategy is to say here is XXX amount of money. and lay out the cash in front of them. Then dont say anything. let them think. If they say no. Walk away. Most of the time they will stop you before you leave because they decided they want the money.
    That's good toknow.

    You just have to be ready in case he is not one of the "most of the time" sellers.

    A fun haggle to watch is Scatman Crothers trying to buy John Wayne's horse in The Shootist. Moses (Crothers) keeps laying down moneya few bills at a time, and Books (Wayne) firmly shakes his headand says "no" each time, except the last.

    "Moses, I want to sell my horse, but this wouldn't buy my saddle."

    I'll make you an offer: I will argue and fight for all of your rights, if you will do the same for me. That is the only way freedom can work. We have to respect all rights, all the time--and strive to win the rights of the other guy as much as for ourselves.

    If I am equal to another, how can I legitimately govern him without his express individual consent?

    There is no human being on earth I hate so much I would actually vote to inflict government upon him.

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    Regular Member Jack House's Avatar
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    45acpForMe wrote:
    Gun shows "can" be better but come around only every couple months.
    Actually, here in Texas, they happen almost every day it seems. :P

    Thank you, all of you, for the advice. It is much appreciated!

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    Citizen wrote:
    LegitMW wrote:
    Haggling is always an option.

    Best strategy is to say here is XXX amount of money. and lay out the cash in front of them. Then dont say anything. let them think. If they say no. Walk away. Most of the time they will stop you before you leave because they decided they want the money.
    That's good toknow.

    You just have to be ready in case he is not one of the "most of the time" sellers.

    A fun haggle to watch is Scatman Crothers trying to buy John Wayne's horse in The Shootist. Moses (Crothers) keeps laying down moneya few bills at a time, and Books (Wayne) firmly shakes his headand says "no" each time, except the last.

    "Moses, I want to sell my horse, but this wouldn't buy my saddle."
    who is john wayne?

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    Regular Member Jack House's Avatar
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    ericfrompahrump wrote:
    who is john wayne?
    You're not serious, are you?

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    Jack House wrote:
    ericfrompahrump wrote:
    who is john wayne?
    You're not serious, are you?
    ive heard the name just never seen anything with him in it

  22. #22
    Newbie crisisweasel's Avatar
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    The best way to get a market price on a gun is by going to:

    http://www.galleryofguns.com

    Click Gun Genie.

    Fill out the form for the gun you're looking for.

    Click search.

    Click on a result.

    Then, click Instant Quote. This will give you the price of the gun at a local retailer who does business with GoG as a distributor.

    So as an example, I see that a Ruger GP100 has an MSRP of $701.00, and retailers near me sell it for $503 - $530.

    Compare this with Impact Guns and Bud's Gun Shop. Add perhaps $40 or $50 to those prices (unless you live local to them; not sure if they have storefronts) to account for FFL transfer fees, shipping, shipping insurance, and general inconvenience, to get the "actual" price.

    When I go to gun shows, I have a pre-compiled list of these prices to compare with what I see. Gun shows also entail an "inconvenience adjuster" if the vendor is from out of town, given the possibility of having something wrong with the gun and having to deal with a shipping hassle.

    In my experience - just my opinion - it is best to establish a relationship with a local gun dealer - such as a retailer, and give a little room on the price for the convenience, should something be wrong and you have to take it back (for warranty or gunsmithing).

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    Using the abovemethod of pricing guns for your area (Eric)you get pricing ranging from $907 to $1,063 on the S&W 686 Plus w/ 6" barrel. That is way out of whack.

    The 870 Express Tactical you were looking for shows out-of-stock and no quote available.

    Interestingly I priced a CZ-P06 on the GoG system and noticed that the Impact price is listed as $643.49 (total $700.05) then adds an "additional fee" of $17.95, yet on their company website it is listed at $629.99. This leads me to suspect that the GoG system is either marking up weapons or, more simply, flawed somehow.

    Personally, I found that GoG was useful to search for pics and specsoccasionally in the past but would never consider using it as a price estimation system or buying through their dealer network.

    You're a big boy Eric, "do what you're of a mind to" as we say back home.

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    Regular Member 45acpForMe's Avatar
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    ecocks wrote:
    Using the above¬*method of pricing guns for your area (Eric)¬*you get pricing ranging from $907 to $1,063 on the S&W 686 Plus w/ 6" barrel. That is way out of whack.
    +1 GoG is not a good source of pricing information.

    http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/Vie...Item=174713132

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    ecocks wrote:
    Using the above¬*method of pricing guns for your area (Eric)¬*you get pricing ranging from $907 to $1,063 on the S&W 686 Plus w/ 6" barrel. That is way out of whack.
    For Pahrump, even the Performance Center version of the 686+ with 6" barrel starts out at $793.49:

    http://www.galleryofguns.com/Genie/R...3821010673203S

    I rarely find GoG out of whack with what I find elsewhere, but whatever works.

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