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Thread: Securing storm windows

  1. #1
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    Securing storm windows

    I have an enclosed patio/sunroom that is fitted with storm windows on all three sides, along with a flimsy patio door. I'm in the process of replacing the door with a security door, but is there anyway to better secure the storm windows for added security? It would be nice to be able to go out there at night and not jump at every tiny sound, knowing that the windows are secure enough that it would take a decent enough amount of time for someone to get one open.

    Thanks!

  2. #2
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    slide locks and window wedges

    This will prevent the windows from being opened by blocking the track.
    http://www.lowes.com/SearchCatalogDi...ogId=10051&N=0

    If you need to secure the windows from moving against each other, then place a window wedge between the mates
    http://www.onestepahead.com/catalog/...oductId=127764

    Doing one or both of these will make the ability to get in without having to break the glass or have inside access.

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    Regular Member Chap's Avatar
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    My grandfather use to drill a hole in the track an inch or two above the closed window. Then stick a big long nail in hole so it's loose or snug fit.

    This way you can open the windows a little for a breeze but not enough to climb through.

    This works for sliding glass patio doors also. Just drill the hole in track on floor. To get out or open window all the way pull nail out.

    No sense buying fancy window or door bars. A cut off broom handle or long dowel pushed into track will work just as well.


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    The only problem with most solutions is that standard window security devices are designed to fit in/on a standard window. The window slide stops may work, though I'm not sure how well drilling into the hollow aluminum to attach the stop would work. Definitely can't nail them, they're way too thin...I do have my interior windows nailed.

    I guess while we're on the topic of window security...my kitchen has casement windows. After extensive googling, I assume my best bet would be putting door chains on them?

  5. #5
    Regular Member Chap's Avatar
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    Reply on nail in track

    The nail is in the track which should be framed in the side of your house by 2x4 lumber.

    If you drill a small hole in the track you should see plenty of wood shavings then the nail will work no problem. the window is built with close tolerances. A nail will jamb up the window. Leave the nail half in and half out so you can grab it and remove it if you need to open the window or get out god forbid in an emergency.

    Or just put a cut broom stick or dowel in the track. that window will never open with a stick in the way.

    Trust me both work, it wont cost much either.

    Chap
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    Regular Member Outdoorsman1's Avatar
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    I was just thinking the other day to put a "door chain" on my patio doors sliding screen door.... Not so much to stop someone who really wanted in as they could just punch through the screen, but more to force an intruder in "breaking and entering" as compared to just opening the screen door and walking in...

    To be clear, I NEVER leave the house unlocked. I am talking about leaving the patio door open with screen shut while I am in other parts of the house...

    I have also heard of the wood in the track option....

    To answer the question....

    Maybe a motioin sensor activated switch with a flood light or siren hooked up to it covering the parimiter of your yard....

    Or, maybe a sign saying something like..

    "Trespassers Will Be Shot... Survivors will be Shot Again..."

    (just kidding)...

    Outdoorsman1

  7. #7
    Regular Member Chap's Avatar
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    Example of a proper window instal



    Here is what I meant, if properly done you should have wood around doors and windows. Dill a small hole in track and check it out, use a framing nail not a small finishing nail.
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  8. #8
    Regular Member Chap's Avatar
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    Here are the steps listed on website

    http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how...dows-and-doors

    How to Secure Glass Windows and Doors

    They suggest "drill a hole through the upper frame of the lower window into the lower frame of the upper window."

    I Suggest:

    Drill into track and framing around window, big nail or drill bit half in and half out of hole. That window will never open up past that obstruction.

    On doors drill into floor track.
    Last edited by Chap; 04-13-2011 at 04:01 PM.
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  9. #9
    Regular Member Outdoorsman1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chap View Post


    Here is what I meant, if properly done you should have wood around doors and windows. Dill a small hole in track and check it out, use a framing nail not a small finishing nail.
    I think he is talking about 100% Aluminum storm windows, tracks, and frames... I had a back porch that had these types of windows... No wood at all... they did have spring loaded pinned tabs in the tracks that could be pulled oy to adjust to various open window heights...

    Outdoorsman1

  10. #10
    Regular Member Chap's Avatar
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    Oh ok

    I figured the storm windows were on the outside of a normal window.

    If these are (stand alone) aluminum storm windows, on an enclosed porch or something similar. Then I'd suggest the small dowels tucked in the track.

    Good luck with which ever device you install.

    My house was broken into, I now have exterior motion sensor security lights around entire house. New steel exterior doors, a monitored interior alarm system with motion sensors through out my house. Nine commercial cameras tied to a DRV in a commercial metal case lag bolted to the shelf and two studded walls with battery back up for cameras and alarm system. ( did this after I was broken into )

    If all else fails then my home owners full replacement cost insurance kicks in like it did the last time. I got everything replaced. Next time I hope they are caught while in my house or I can provide video of the burglars to the cops.
    .
    I also now have a Fire Arms permit for MS, I carry an XDM .45 on my hip or near me 24/7/365.

    Good luck.

    Chap
    Last edited by Chap; 04-13-2011 at 04:37 PM.
    Kimber Ultra Carry II .45 ACP, 3" barrel 1911 with a Mitch Rosen holster

    New additions to the family -
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  11. #11
    Campaign Veteran since9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by x3atthis View Post
    ...is there anyway to better secure the storm windows for added security?
    Sure! Rolladens!

    I had non-locking, plastic composite rolladens in my apartment in Germany. When the inland hurricane started hurtling branches against my windows in the Fall of 2005 in excess of 70 mph, not a single one was broken, despite some rather serious collisions.

    They also come in hardened aluminum which, when locked, makes it very tough to breach through a window.

    An additional benefit is that if you lift them slightly, there are narrow perforated gaps between them which allow air to flow and a little light to come in. If you'd prefer no air or sunlight, just release the tension.

    A final benefit is that when they're fully closed, the dead air space between them and your window just about doubles your windows' R-value, while the physical presense reflects the heat, that is, it keeps the heat either out or in, depending on whether it's summer or winter. My apartment there was double the size of my current apartment, yet my heating bills were less than half of what I pay now. With the rolladens up (first winter), my heating bill was about the same as what I pay now.
    The First protects the Second, and the Second protects the First. Together, they protect the rest of our Bill of Rights and our United States Constitution, and help We the People protect ourselves in the spirit of our Declaration of Independence.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Outdoorsman1 View Post
    I think he is talking about 100% Aluminum storm windows, tracks, and frames... I had a back porch that had these types of windows... No wood at all... they did have spring loaded pinned tabs in the tracks that could be pulled oy to adjust to various open window heights...

    Outdoorsman1
    Wanted to thank everyone for their advice. The slide stops do appear to be effective...though if they aren't placed flush with the top of the window, then they provide leverage to pop the window right out. So it's a win lose I guess. And outdoorsman is correct, they're the aluminum storms on my enclosed side porch. They do have those tabs, but they're plastic and several are already broken.

    Since9, how much do rolladens cost usually? They look nice...and expensive.

    This is our first home, we were renting a home before this, so please excuse the stupid question that's about to follow...how costly would the purchase and installation of 11 windows be? They inside of the frame measures 25 inches wide and 58 inches high. I don't know if that would necessitate customs or not.

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