100% stainless auto

Preferably a 1911-style.

Got one? Got something good or bad to say about one?

I'm looking for a gun that won't mind being underwater now and again, without being immediately cleaned and de-watered.

Fishing from Kayak, it's gonna get dunked and stay wet for a while when it happens.

The first 1911 I owned was a 100% Stainless Colt Delta Elite in 10mm.

It was, without a doubt, the finest "factory" handgun I have ever owned. And after a light "fluff and buff" by a local smith in NoVa, it was astoundingly reliable, accurate, and easy to shoot--had less recoil than a .45acp 1911. When it was complete, it had a polished ramp, lowered ejection port, a Videki trigger, tuned lockwork, a Wilson "Dwyer Group-Gripper" full-length guide rod, and a set of custom rosewood checkered grips with Colt Delta medallions.

It would feed ANYTHING, was match-grade accurate, and went BANG every time you pushed the bang-switch. In the 5+ years I had it, it never once jammed or had a FTF or FTE. From the cheapest range-supplied reloads to the most exotic defensive rounds (MagSafes, HydraShoks, Custom-loaded SilverTips, bulk "YellowBox" FMJs--it just always went bang every time, and on-target.

In short, it looked fantastic, performed flawlessly, and I trusted it as my primary self-defense tool. And it got a LOT of "gee whiz" comments on the ranges, which was nice.

All that said, I can honestly say I never had it kayaking or white-water rafting, so I can't speak to it's performance in such conditions, but I have shot it in the rain, in below-freezing conditions, and in the hottest, most humid NoVa summers you can imagine, and it just always went bang. I can't see a little water affecting it negatively, but I've never done that, so I can't speak to it with any objective authority.

Box-stock, it was a fine firearm. With a little TLC from a good smith, it was a treasure.

I'm still kicking myself for selling it.

When I finish grad school, replacing it will be one of the first "big ticket" firearms purchases I make!

Can't believe I'm saying this, but a Glock may be your best bet.

I don't know of anything that has a more proven track record for reliability in spite of abuse.

I would agree with that. I love my 1911, but with it's spiffy wood grip panels, and custom work, I don't think it would be my choice for "extreme sports". My subcompact Glock 36 would be MUCH better suited for kayaking than my full-size ParaOrdnance S-14...

I have a Wilson CQB Elite with their "tuff-coat" or whatever-they-call-it finish and I carry it in the woods, throw it under the seat of the truck, and just generally kick it around and I have absolutely zero problems as long as I wipe it dry and lightly oil it within a reasonable time frame (24 hours or so). The new gun finishes are pretty impressively durable. I get a lot of "That's no way to treat a Wilson" comments, but to my way of thinking, there's absolutely no way I'd spend that much money on a pistol that couldn't take abuse. I'm betting my life on it and I plan to have it when I need it. I say buy whichever 1911-style pistol you like with an abuse-resistant finish and just go about your business.

Depending on your price range, the most suitable option may be to contact a bunch of custom makers and ask them about the sorts of things they can do for you.

Just buy whatever pistol you like best and Duracoat it or have it Duracoated. Duracoat is cheap to do your self and is a very good finish.

irish52084 said:

Just buy whatever pistol you like best and Duracoat it or have it Duracoated. Duracoat is cheap to do your self and is a very good finish.

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Nice as a cosmetic finish, not so sure of it's being durable for what he's thinking of. Hear a lot of folks who've had it done complain of it chipping/flaking with normal use. Cant say myself,havent tried it yet, but..

If I was going to be "dunking" or possibly losing my firearm I wouldn't invest a whole lot of money on it. A glock may be a cheap durable solution unless you absolutely hate them.

Another thought is what do the Navy Seals carry, Sig P226? As far as I can tell the P220 in 45acp is the same gun if you require 45acp. Sig's aren't cheap though so losing them may make one cry.

I have had Colt and Springfield stainless 1911 models and "liked" them but sold them due to lack of use and capacity. I would recommend either and really don't have anything bad to say about them specifically. I just prefer other models over a 1911 (forgive me John Moses Browning).

j4l said:

Nice as a cosmetic finish, not so sure of it's being durable for what he's thinking of. Hear a lot of folks who've had it done complain of it chipping/flaking with normal use. Cant say myself,havent tried it yet, but..

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Like almost all coatings or paint, if the prep work is done properly it will work properly. Every issue I've ever seen with it has been due to improper prep or some sort of accident that would have damaged any finish.

There is also cerakote(SP?), but I don't know that much about it.

Robar NP3 might be an option I've heard some good things about it, but no personal experience.

I have heard good things about duracote and cerakote.

They only cover the outside of the gun and won't do sh1t for the innards. For a "submersible" gun I wouldn't worry so much about the frame finish as the innard parts corroding and impairing functionality.

I guess there is always the plastic bag that is loose enough to insert a finger through the trigger guard. At least you won't have to go chasing brass!

j4l said:

Nice as a cosmetic finish, not so sure of it's being durable for what he's thinking of. Hear a lot of folks who've had it done complain of it chipping/flaking with normal use. Cant say myself,havent tried it yet, but..

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I've Duracoated several and I'm definitely a fan. The problems with flaking or peeling come from not properly preparing the metal. If there is any oil at all left on the surface, the Duracoat doesn't stick well. That means even the oil off your fingers. Also, if you put it on over some other finish, it's only as durable as the finish beneath it. To do it right, you have to completely remove the existing finish (bead blasting, for example) and meticulously degrease it, handling it with clean cotton or vinyl gloves. For the best results, I apply it over a fresh zinc phosphate parkerized finish and it's practically indestructible. It can be done by the do-it-yourselfer but it's not quite as simple as many people think.

If you buy a new pistol that's already parkerized, all you have to do is thoroughly degrease it and Duracoat it.

hmm cool... been half-considering doing my 870. factory finish leaves a bit to be desired.

Goofy idea...

Instead of spending the big bucks for a gun that might wind up at the bottom of the big drink, how about multiple cheap guns, especially for the situation you are describing. You can get a High Point in .45ACP 8+1 for well under $200 and if it falls in the water and is lost, no big deal. Buy another. If it gets rusty test their warranty service.

I personally plan on getting a couple in the next year as "just in case" guns. After watching a video of a couple of guys TRYING to kill two High Points and failing, kinda makes you think there is something being done right.

It's going to be stuck to me with a retention holster. Be pretty hard to lose. I'm liking the Glock suggestions only because I have been drooling over 10mm for so long... I don't like rust, and I know me... If it can rust and I have it, it'll have rust on it... And then I'll be grumpy and it'll be my fault.

Almost grabbed one of those Delta Elites this past summer...

Screw it, AMD-65. They're supposed to be rusty... I hear they work better when they're brown.

You have a retention holster for an AMD-65? :uhoh:

Photos, or it didn't happen...

Dreamer said:

You have a retention holster for an AMD-65? :uhoh:

Photos, or it didn't happen...

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We usually call it duct-tape..