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Thread: g20- who else?

  1. #1
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    g20- who else?

    Hey I live in the great state of maine and have been carring for over 4 years. Is any one else carry there g20 1omm?

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    I bought a Glock 20 because I wanted the ability to shoot 10mm, but I conceal carry a Glock 27. I would consider carrying a G29 but not a 20. It's just too big for me to cc.
    Soldiers are dying for our freedom. The least we can do is vote.

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    i used to. but then again the 10mm has such a nasty recoil, that i find it hard to place quick rounds on target due to the muzzle flip. so i stopped carrying daily. now i only carry it when i hike.
    i would rather run out of blood, breath and life. and die fighting. than run out of ammo , and die with my pants down -Tom Scantas

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    Regular Member Marco's Avatar
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    I carried a G20 for about 7yrs and before that I carried a Colt DE, just recently went back to a 1911 style firearm, a vintage Coonan.
    The two I have aren't stock anymore, both have 6" barrels & slides (not lone wolf) w/ Heinie sights, SS guide rods, arotek pins and 3.5lbs triggers.

    The Glocks now only pull home duty.
    If you think like a Statist, act like one, or back some, you've given up on freedom and have gone over to the dark side.
    The easiest ex. but probably the most difficult to grasp for gun owners is that fool permission slip so many of you have, especially if you show it off with pride. You should recognize it as an embarrassment, an infringement, a travesty and an affront to a free person.


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    I'm not a very big guy, and I carry a glock 20 IWB with a comptac Minarour holster with ease. I carry two loads, both from double tap. The load I carry for defense is 150 grain jhp at about 1520fps, which smokes a .357 magnum. The load I carry in the field is 200 grain jsp at 1200fps. I own many glocks, m&p's, etc., and the g20 is my absolute favorite in terms of velocity and energy on target. As for recoil, I find it rather controllable, but I'm not recoil sensitive either. All in all one of the best handguns for your money, you can even get reduced loads that have same velocity and energy as .40s&w if you find the need for reduced loads.

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    Quote Originally Posted by KYGlockster View Post
    ...you can even get reduced loads that have same velocity and energy as .40s&w if you find the need for reduced loads.
    Or you can buy a 10mm-40s&w conversion barrel from Lone Wolf and shoot 40s&w, which is far cheaper than 10mm. It makes a day at the range so much more enjoyable. I can get 100 40s&w rounds for the price of 50 10mm rounds. Plus, several hundred 10mm rounds in a short time will start to work on the joints of a 56 year old. Getting old isn't as much fun as I thought it would be!!!
    Soldiers are dying for our freedom. The least we can do is vote.

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    Regular Member Marco's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KYGlockster View Post
    snip/edit:
    The Double Tap load I carry for defense is 150 grain jhp at about 1520fps, which smokes a .357 magnum. The load I carry in the field is 200 grain jsp at 1200fps.
    Are you using an after market/extended barrel for the G20?
    As for the 10mm smoking .357 mag. that's NOT quite true, when you compare real world numbers.
    When you compare the hyper velocity ammo makers the numbers are almost equal, let us not forget the .357mag numbers are from a revolver.

    Not one of those pic'd below or the 6" barreled version in my Avatar.


    http://www.buffalobore.com/index.php...t_detail&p=100

    http://www.buffalobore.com/index.php...t_detail&p=273

    I think we can all agree 10mm is an awesome round that deserves alot more respect than it gets and is bad mouthed by many who have never fired a single 10mm round.

    As for those that claim the recoil of 10mm is too much my 11yr old daughter who weighs <80lbs doesn't have a problem firing my Colt DE with FHL's.


    Not trying to start a caliber war as I rely on both for my defensive needs.
    There are pro's and con's for both calibers.
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    Last edited by Marco; 11-09-2011 at 11:56 AM.
    If you think like a Statist, act like one, or back some, you've given up on freedom and have gone over to the dark side.
    The easiest ex. but probably the most difficult to grasp for gun owners is that fool permission slip so many of you have, especially if you show it off with pride. You should recognize it as an embarrassment, an infringement, a travesty and an affront to a free person.


    ~Alan Korwin

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    I was going to start a new thread, but since this one is relatively new I thought I could probably get my answers from some of you guys here. I am buying a glock 20 this weekend. I have somewhat small hands for a guy, and I think I would shoot the short frame model better (based on where my index finger reaches the trigger pad) than the full size frame. I wanted a compensated barrel and frame, but glock doesn't make a short frame compensated- it's one or the other. So, I'm going to go with the short frame because I feel trigger pull is more important for accuracy. I shoot a lot of large caliber guns (500 mag and .44 mag types) and I'm not overly recoil sensitive, especially shooting an auto as opposed to a revolver. I was however considering changing the standard 17# stock spring out to maybe a 20#. Anyone have experience replacing their factory spring? If so, what weight did you choose and what were the results? I'll definitely upgrade to a steel guide rod with the new spring, and I'm thinking non-captive since I'm getting a Gen 3. Any info would help.

    To the OP,

    I also have a Delta Elite and Kimber 10mm and love them both. This will be my first glock 10mm, but I've never been disappointed with any Glock models yet. I certainly don't mean to change the subject of your thread, but I figured it would be all of the same people to answer me anyway.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2A Pride View Post
    I was going to start a new thread, but since this one is relatively new I thought I could probably get my answers from some of you guys here. I am buying a glock 20 this weekend. I have somewhat small hands for a guy, and I think I would shoot the short frame model better (based on where my index finger reaches the trigger pad) than the full size frame. I wanted a compensated barrel and frame, but glock doesn't make a short frame compensated- it's one or the other. So, I'm going to go with the short frame because I feel trigger pull is more important for accuracy. I shoot a lot of large caliber guns (500 mag and .44 mag types) and I'm not overly recoil sensitive, especially shooting an auto as opposed to a revolver. I was however considering changing the standard 17# stock spring out to maybe a 20#. Anyone have experience replacing their factory spring? If so, what weight did you choose and what were the results? I'll definitely upgrade to a steel guide rod with the new spring, and I'm thinking non-captive since I'm getting a Gen 3. Any info would help.

    To the OP,

    I also have a Delta Elite and Kimber 10mm and love them both. This will be my first glock 10mm, but I've never been disappointed with any Glock models yet. I certainly don't mean to change the subject of your thread, but I figured it would be all of the same people to answer me anyway.
    The diffference between the G20/21 regular and short frame is mostly in the bottom of the grip--the SF versions have a less exaggerated Glock "Hump". While I have very long fingers, and I can shoot the regular framed versions just fine, but the SF version feels a lot better in hand, to me. The difference in the grip circumference near the trigger as far as I can tell is either the same or has a very small difference.



    For a defensive firearm, I would stay away from compensated barrels. It's gonna be a lot louder and brighter if you have to use it indoors. On a woods gun or range gun, maybe that's less of a big deal.

    As far as springs--you'll want the heavy spring with the hotter Buffalo Bore and Double Tap or heavy handloads. So long as it runs right and doesn't chuck brass into your face, you want the strongest possible spring, IMO.

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