Thanks for starting this thread, WalkingWolf.
I have been looking into reloading lately, but have been at a standstill recently because there seems to be so much to consider:
- Powder differences: how many types does one need to have?
- Bullet differences: lubed or not, lead or jacketed?
- Case differences: what are the differences?
- Primers: how many different kinds does one need?
- Reloading machines: single. progressive, or non-hand powered?
Then there are similar questions for shotgun shell reloading...
I will review this thread next week when I'm back in internet range, but those are the kinds of things I'm trying to find out - and I will review any and all resources and information offered on this thread.
Thanks again, WW.
Unless you become hardcore you probably for handgun can get by with one powder. I use about five powders, I use two grades of black powder, Universal Clays for most loads, and Winchester 296 for hot handgun loads. A person can fine tune more with more powders, but the difference in results are minimal for most.
I always lube my bullets, but there are different ways to do it, I use two methods with the same lube. I pan lube by melting lube into a pan placing bullets into the pan and allowing the lube to cool. Then pushing the bullets out of the cooled lube leaving a ring of lube in the groove. Some bullets are designed with tumble rings for tumble lubing the whole bullet. I do this also I melt the lube enough to cover bullets, pick them up with forceps and set them base down on wax paper. When cooled they are ready to load. I don't have a lead problem so far, my lube is a mix of beeswax, candle wax, animal tallow, and ivory soap. So far it has worked in everything.
There are not too many variables on cases, they are mostly brass from different manufacturers. Nickel plate is better for handgun in most cases, they do not tarnish so can be cleaned in soap and water. There are cases where one size case can be cut to fit a shorter caliber, or in some cases make wildcat calibers. You will not have to worry so much about this. If you can get nickel cases get them, if not you can use a cleaning solution, or a tumbler to clean them. If you use a tumbler, make sure you wipe of any dust from the tumbling medium, it will scratch the inside of the sizing die.
There are only a few differences in primers. Handgun small and large, standard, and magnum, same for rifle primers. I use standard for all my loads, IMO magnum are only needed when pushing the limits. I find proper crimp more important than primer power levels, especially on light loads. Most people think a crimp is not needed on light loads but it is, because if the powder does not build enough pressure the bullet may end up lodged in the barrel. IMO more guns have been blown up by light loads than heavy loads.
For Handguns a single stage works fine, the fancy setups come with a big price tag. Shotgun needs a different press, and different primers, but the costs are basically on the same level. Some of the handgun powders out there are actually shotgun powders.
