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.357 mag.

357luvr

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targets001-3.jpg

1stshot - 2.75" low
2nd shot - 2.25" low
3rd shot - 1.75" low
4th or 5th shot - DEAD ON!!! Like I said, the windage needs to be adjusted and verified. I've adjusted it roughly1/64" - 1/32" to the right. I just haven't had a chance to verify if that's the right amount. I'll try to do that tomorrow if it's not raining.
BTW, the few extra shots were me compensating different amounts to the right. Basically I was worried about windage more than elavation at that point.
 

Loneviking

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I'm guessing that you are right handed, and right eye dominant. If true, you need to move the windage screw to the LEFT to bring the rounds to the right. Once you do that, you need some work on trigger control. Empty your gun, put a dime on the barrel and see if you can pull the trigger while keeping the dime on the barrel. When you can keep the dime on the barrel with an empty gun, then switch over to a loaded gun at the gun range.

You just need some fine tuning on your shooting techniques and you'll do fine.
 

357luvr

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gamestalker wrote:
Oh if its shooting left move the rear sight to the right, and left if its hitting right,up to raise it,down to lower it. Don't mess with the front sight, all adjustments are made from the rear only.

gamestalker

One of you guys tell me one thing and another tells me another thing so which is it? Common sense would tell me to do the exact oposite as what's above. But I am obviously lacking in the common sense department. LOL To be honest I originally adjusted it to the left by simply putting my hand parralel to the barrel and canting it to the right (the direction the shots need to go) and noticed that the rear partof my hand went to the left. I then reread what's above and had to readjust it to the right. I'm guessing I need to adjust it back to the left. Oh and yes, I'm right hand/eye dominant.

I'd never heard of that dime on the barrel thing, I guarantee that I couldn't do that. The meds that I'm on make me a little shaky. At least that's all I can think of, I've been shaky since high school and that's when I went on my meds so I guess that's what it is. I'll give it a shot (no pun intended) next time I get a chance.
 

Loneviking

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Gamestalker is wrong, as you'll see if you adjust it the way I suggested. Like most things in life, think opposite. Move the windage to the left to bring the rounds right and vice versa. The shake can be a problem, but one older fellow I met with early Parkinsons learned to snap shoot. You don't aim carefully, it's more point shooting where you bring the gun up fast and snap off a round into the target. Look for a point shooting instructor and see if that helps.
 

357luvr

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Thanks for the correction. You just saved me from wastinga couple of the very few rounds I have left. Like I said, I aligned my hand with the barrel and then twisted the front ofit to the right and saw that the back of my hand went to the left so I was pretty sure he was wrong but I wanted to make sure. Thanks again.

Oh and snap shooting is kinda what I do. I get on target, align my sightsand fire the second that I'm close to perfect. The perfect shot just doesn't happen with me any more and if it does, it was pure luck. I've trained myself to get on target and adjust the amount of air in my lungs (when I'm proned out and looking for maximum accuracy) then hold my breath, align my sights to be correct windage wise, adjust amount of air in my lungs/breathe if necessary, verify sight alignment with the target elevation wise and then take the shot, after that I stay on target and check my sights to see where they are while guessing where the shot hit. I then clear the weapon and check the shot placement with some binocs. From the time I look through the sights to the time I fire the shot isusually only a couple seconds, any more than that and I start to get shaky. Anyway, doesthat sound about right? Is there anything I should change/do differently?

In my defense, I'm not this dumb/hard headed when it comes to shooting handguns. It's just that I'm just now getting into the hunting rifle scene. Before it was always handguns with self defense type shooting practice. Now I'm (trying to be) more into hunting rifles and accuracy and such. Basically before I was looking for kiddybasketball sized groupsand now I'm looking for golf ball sized to coin sized groups. Bit of a difference there, don't you think?
 

357luvr

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It was from ~25 yards away. I was down in the woods setting up my tree stand today and realized that even from my stand, the farthest clear shot that I'm gonna have is onlyabout 40-50 yards away so I won't have to back up much to be sighted in correctly.
 

cREbralFIX

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357luvr wrote:
250 yards = close range!?!?!?! How's the weather in heaven? I just can't imagine something like that! Hey while we're on the subject of long range shots, how are the .308 rounds at long range. I mean hey, it's good enough for the military so it's gotta be good enough for me who'll never step foot on a range with more than ~250 yard targets, right? The reason I'm asking is I'd like to have and know how to use it to 'reach out and touch something.' I used to have a Savage .308 with accutrigger and that was soooooooo sweet. I'm basically just thinking about getting another one as a BUR (Back Up Rifle) for hunting. What do you think?

Thanks again for all your help!

308 works just fine at 1,000 yards. I know...because I've done it. I went to Wyoming this summer for a long range rifle course. I shot the head off a small prairie dog at 250 yards...it was easy.

I used a Savage 10FP with Accutrigger. It's one heck of a great rifle. I mounted a Pride Fowler Rapid Reticle RR800-1 on it. I used a Harris bipod.

My review of the course:
http://longrangeinternational.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=281

Another review:
http://longrangeinternational.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=310
 

357luvr

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You guys aren't going to believe this!!! First and foremost, this particular puma, SUUUUUUUUUCKS!!!!! :XFirst the action (wouldn't cycle smoothly until I ran 35-50 rounds through it), then the sights (they are dead on and within that perfect 4" circle now, that's at 40 yards btw), and now the stock.

Basically the stock has now got a lot of ~1/32" spaces and one or two spaces about double or tripple that between the butt stock and the metal of the gun. All I know is on the 5th shot (probably 110 lifetime total), I just felt something "give" and I looked down and saw that the stock was broke.Here's some pics.

Sorry for the bad quality I had to do some adjusting due to low light.

puma004.jpg


puma001.jpg


puma002.jpg


puma006.jpg




I plan on calling Puma or whoever on Monday but they sent me a free sight, whoop de doo. I'm sure getting a new butt stock isn't going to be that easy and to be honest, if it requires more than a phone call, I doubt I do anything but sell the god gorsaken thing!!!

Thanks for helping me get it sighted in though.:banghead:
 

gamestalker

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Last year I had a guy bring me an expensivesingle shot shotgun for trap or skeet, I don't which as I don't do much of that. Anyway, it had split in the same way so what I did was finish splitting it and then I used clear acrylic and clamps to firmly seat the broken pieces back together. I then re-seated the action to the stock with a micro film of the acrylic to prevent the shock from re fracturing it. I then completely refinished the stock and I must say it came out looking better than the original finish. The guy was pleased, actually speechless as to how well it looked and has since put hundreds, maybe thousands of rounds through it without any indication of it re fracturing. I looked at the pics and think it would be no problem to fix that one and in such a way you would never know it had fractured nor will it fracture again.

gamestalker
 

357luvr

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I sold the darn thing!!! Well it's up for sale anyway. It's at my local gun store for $350 and if it doesn't sell in the next few weeks, I'm giving it to my uncle for $100. I just want to be rid of the :cuss:thing!!!
 

gamestalker

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Good luck trying to sell it for that dollar amount with such noticeable damage to the stock. I would bet you'll be doing good to get a couple hundred for it in that condition. Maybe not, just hope you find a someone that is too excited to really look or care. If nothing else and you simply can't find a solution I'll fix the problem for a nominal fee and I promise you will not be able to detect the break so long as you haven't lost any of the pieces or tried to fix it which can change the way the pieces go back together. For that stock I would fix it and refinish it for about $50. plus postage to and from,I canhave it back in the mail to you within 14 days from the time I recieve it.Seems like a lot, but it's actually really low ball by a lot for the kind of work I do. No pressure.

gamestalker
 

357luvr

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I'm basically hoping someone sees it and not notices the broken stock until I have the money and they're S.O.L. The guy at the gunstore didn't notice it. You really can't even see the damage unless you try to twist the stock. That's why all the pics look different, I was twisting it at different places and with different amounts of pressure.

I'll tell you what, I'll give it a week or two to see if it sells at the gunstore. If it doesn't and I can somehow find $50 plus two ways worth of postage, I'll PM you for your address and send it your way. Thanks for everything.

Oh yeah, I did take the stock off the other day. Basically there's a sideways 'V'cut in the wood to go around the spring and handle of the gun. There's a VERY slight crack in the length of the sideways V that goes all the way back to the hole the screw goes through. It's all the way at the edge of the wood though. Is that going to be a problem? I mean, you can't "finish" breaking it because it would break literally the entire left hand side of the stock. You can't glue the two pieces together since there's no room to get the glue between the two pieces. You also can't put anything over top of it because it's all the way in the corner of the stock. Just wanting to know your general plans.
 

gamestalker

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It's not a problem at all.It almost doesn't matter how the break is, it can be fixed and will never break again, at least not where the repair was made. You really have to see it from a person who does wood repair on guns for a living to understand that when repaired it will be much stronger than the original wood and likely unnoticeable so long as no one else has tried to fix it. This last one I fixed broke right at the hole where the long bolt goes through and into the action, at the V is what I think it is how you would refer to it. It also had a chunk that broke off of the other side of the surface to action area that looked like it would break again to the average eye. I've been fixing stocks and making grips for over 30 years and it has become more of an art than anything else. I've learned some things along the way that increased the strength and help to hide the repair as well.

I am relocating to Tucson in about a week,and need about 2 weeks to get settled in, sorry if that caused a delay or problem for you.

gamestalker
 

357luvr

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Actually it doesn't matter anyway, apparently someone paid $300 for it yesterday. After the gun store's 10%, I'm coming home with $270 in my pocket!!! I'm more than satisfied with that. I finish paying off my uncle for the money he fronted me to get the darn thing in the first place and I've still $45 to buy my girlfriend a birthday present!!!:celebrateI'm happy.

Thanks for the offer though.
 
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